🍷Your Guide to Healdsburg
The best espresso martini of my life lives in Wine Country
In August, I got to go to Sonoma County for a work trip! The TLDR: Go see Ashleigh at Goodnight’s for the best drinks of your life and stroll downtown for the cute shops.
If you can believe it, I grew up in Southern California and went to college in the Bay Area but never made my way to Sonoma County for wine tastings. A few years back, I ventured on a weekend getaway to Temecula in the Greater Los Angeles Area and got a feel for what I imagined wine country would be like, but I didn’t really have an excuse to go — until recently, when I found myself staying at a boutique hotel in downtown Healdsburg (heels-burg like your foot). Founded in 1851 by entrepreneur Harmon Heald, Healdsburg offers rustic creekside beauty along the Russian River about an hour from the bustle of San Francisco. The traditional territory of the Pomo Tribe, the town became known as a quiet getaway for those looking to enjoy European vibes without catching a flight.
My journey to Sonoma County started with a short plane ride from Los Angeles to Santa Rosa. I was picked up by 27 North in a Volvo SUV with a panoramic sunroof for a short and scenic ride to Healdsburg, complete with wild turkeys and bursting vineyards. There’s a bookish warmth you feel when you walk into the hotel, and I was pleased with the welcome drink, a hibiscus tea with (or without) the housemade tequila, El Mexicano.
Though my journey wasn’t long, travel days can still take something out of me. The second I got settled into my room, I sank into the fluffiest bed, almost as if it sighed along with me. I kicked off my shoes, turned on the gas fireplace with a flick of a switch, and flipped through the local SF Modern Luxury magazine while I enjoyed a cup of local Russian River Tea.
My room was spacious — bigger than the apartment I lived in years ago in New York. I loved the 19th-century antique armoire, the faux balcony windows, and the extravagant four-poster bedframe. The attention to detail was incredible, like the well-appointed mirrors featuring tiny birds, flowers, and butterflies that gave it a lightly feminine touch.
If you must work from your room, you can feel fancy sitting at the leather-top desk with vintage books held together by bronze lions. The hotel’s L’Occitane bath products finish off the elegance, along with homemade lavender bath salts. Soak in the jet tub and enjoy the view — in my case, local art from Terry Sauvé that delivered a gorgeous setting sun overlooking the vineyards. In fact, the hotel is filled with art from other locals, like Bradford Brenner’s lulling florals and Berisford’s modern It’s-It ice cream pieces.
Luckily, I didn’t have to grab a Lyft to get dinner as the property has a restaurant, Arandas, right downstairs. Wednesday night is Rock Like a Banshee — bring your own collection of records, or listen to the DJ spin some classics while you enjoy happy hour with a Savoia Spritz Slushie to cool off or the prickly pear margarita. Happy hour (Thursday and Friday between 4 and 6 PM and Saturday and Sunday between 3 and 6 PM) offers classic margs plus light bites like queso fundido, coconut shrimp tacos, and quesabirria.
For dinner, get the carnitas bowl: slow-cooked, citrus-marinated pork on a plate filled with the most delicious frijoles de olla (slow-cooked beans), perfectly cooked and flavorful Spanish rice, guacamole, and crema. Be sure to ask for the in-house hot sauce. Though I was full, I had to go with the can’t-miss recommendation for dessert: the churros. I don’t order them often because I’ve found that churros can be greasy or stale, but the texture of the cinnamon-sugar crunch against the soft warmth of the freshly fried dough was mind-blowing.
The churros come with a side of chocolate and caramel sauce (and cute fresh flowers for decor), but my server Jess suggested dipping the dessert in the Horchata Mudslide. It’s like an adult milkshake with tequila blanco, Two Stacks Irish Cream, Evil Bean Coffee Liqueur, horchata whip, and Abuelita Chocolate. Thirsty for a little more, I also had to try one the hotel’s craft cocktails made by mixologist Matt, La Mujer Florero: vodka, velvet falernum, strawberry Campari, lemon, and grapefruit.
Before heading to bed, I wanted to check out the library I passed on the way in. As a bookworm, I practically swooned at the vintage editions of Charles Dickens, a collection of poetry, an early edition Romeo and Juliet, and Harvard Classics series of hardcovers. Sitting there, I felt a bit like a millennial Belle from Beauty and the Beastwith the dim lights, lo-fi music, and a glass of Malbec.
Breakfast at the hotel is grab-n-go, perfect for those off to explore the town. Grab a pear, a coffee with plenty of assorted milk options, and a muffin. If you’re here on the weekend, treat yourself to brunch instead. I’m not a sweet breakfast diner, but I listened to my server’s suggestion and went for the Brioche French Toast, served with fresh strawberries and horchata whipped cream. Get a side of the crispiest bacon and insanely well-seasoned breakfast potatoes.
With just 16 rooms, 27 North is like the Goldilocks hotel: intimate but not too quiet. California residents can enjoy 20 percent off plus a complimentary bottle of local wine.
If you’re not enjoying breakfast at your hotel, walk a few steps across the street to Little Saint. I hadn’t looked at the menu beforehand, but when I arrived, my knee-jerk reaction (like most other guests who came in after me) was to gasp and say out loud, “Oh my god this place is SO CUTE!” It happens to be entirely plant-based with produce and flowers from its own regenerative farm, located less than three miles away. Brunch is served from 8 AM to 3 PM. Try the breakfast sandwich: seitan ham, Just Egg, peppers, and garlic aioli on a housemade English muffin along with rocket and my personal favorite, pickled onions.
I haven’t been vegetarian in years, so I was a bit reserved about it, but this genre of cuisine has come such a long way (or maybe I just got lucky at this heavenly spot). Pair your meal with a skinny glass of an iced latte, or go for one of the Cosmic Cups: ashwagandha cocoa featuring Volo Chocolate, mushroom latte that blends espresso with reishi, chaga turkey tail, shitake and lions mane, or golden milk. Don’t have time to stay? Grab some plant-based lemon ricotta or burrata, fig salami, and wines to pack a picnic.
After your first meal of the day, stroll around downtown Healdsburg. As someone who loves to shop local, I was delighted to see so many mom-n-pops. Many of the clothing shops had sale racks outside to browse for tops and skirts. Lucky Heron is a special one, and owner Michelle curates a little something for everyone, like Formulary 55’s handmade lotions, sweet little jumpers for sweet little ones, gently used vintage clothing, jewelry, and more.
Pop into Pizzando for a local Straus Farms soft serve organic vanilla ice cream to cool down. And no downtown is complete without a local bookstore. Copperfield’s didn’t disappoint. It had tons of books on sale out in front, but what really makes a book shop for me is its displays. I loved seeing a spotlight of local authors, summer reads with employee handwritten recommendations, and Italian cookbooks, along with cute gifts for the book lover in your life.
For baked goods, check out the chic Costeaux French Bakery, which houses the pie pan of the Guinness World’s Largest Pumpkin Pie (weighing in at 418 pounds!) and offers cookies, pastries, and drinks to-go along with its sit-down menu. Another worthwhile activity in Healdsburg is Art Nite, hosted each First Thursday from 5 to 7 PM, with 19 participating art galleries and restaurants offering perks like a free glass of wine or a bowl of guac.
For a good night, head to Goodnight’s Prime Steak + Spirits, a steakhouse named after rancher and Western Heritage Museum Hall of Famer Charles Goodnight. For the full experience, see Ashleigh Grace, the lead mixologist upstairs. Not only has she crafted every delicious and expertly balanced cocktail on the menu, but she even makes her own moonshine cherries. Everyone is greeted with a warm welcome and drink recommendations depending on their mood. All night, I kept hearing how incredible each diverse libation was, from the Girl in Green grasshopper and the frozen-jalapeno-topped Jolene to the strawberry-infused, tequila-based beverage called When We Say Goodnight. The standout, though, is her 10-years-in-the-perfecting Espresso Martini, rimmed with butterscotch and Hawaiian black salt. I was so over the moon about it that the guy next to me ordered one also after he finished his beer and declared it the (second) best damn drink in Healdsburg.
If you want to have a little more than liquid for dinner, Chef David Lawrence’s Japanese A5 wagyu sirloin is a luscious, splurgy dream with its crisp edges, melt-in-your-mouth texture, and pristine flavor that truly needs nothing else — though all steaks come with a choose-your-own sauce (try the red wine bordelaise or the chimichurri) and salt (like the truffle or pink Himalayan).
For sides, try the five-cheese lobster mac or the Blue Lake green beans with caramelized Walla Walla onions and roasted garlic-chili butter. Vegetarians can choose from a vast selection of salads like the made-to-order tableside Caesar and dishes like corn bisque, Parker House rolls, crispy maitake mushrooms, burrata, or loaded baked potato. If you still have room, try the fried bread pudding topped with vanilla ice cream, then head to the local dive bar John & Zeke’s where the party keeps going late into the night.
Sonoma isn’t known as wine country for nothing, so be sure to set aside time for at least one tasting. Head to Banshee Wines in Alexander Valley (about 15 minutes from Healdsburg) for a Flight of the Banshee Tasting.
My tasting started off with the winery’s own deliciously crisp and bright Ten of Cups sparkling brut, followed by a 2021 chardonnay. As a carménère lover, I couldn’t believe how much I liked this California classic white with its baked apple, honey, and citrus flavors. The Trenton Vineyards Russian River Valley pinot noir aged 15 months in French oak offered baked cookies, sassafras, and mocha, while the Anderson Valley one gave Fig Newton, Graham cracker, and caramel. To finish, the Cabernet Franc left a hint of blueberries, dark toffee, and baking spices.
If you’re looking for an event space, the cellar space below brings plenty of room, plus some nostalgic early aughts punk surprise in the form of Avril Lavigne’s old roadie set.
Note: A version of this piece was originally published on Matador.
Writing Classes
If you’re interested in creative writing, here are some upcoming classes that I’m teaching:
This 8-week creative nonfiction class (starts Jan 7)
This 6-month memoir cohort (starts Feb 3)
I’m also still working 1:1 with writers and will offer more generative creative writing workshops in the coming year (Write Like a Popstar is coming back due to popular demand, and a fun class on Rosalia’s Lux album)!
Want 21 free creative writing prompts? Reply and I’ll send you a free PDF!
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Christina Berke MFA M.Ed. is a Los Angeles based travel writer who’s been to 40 countries and 22 states. Her work is in Edible, Teen Vogue, The Sun, Khora, NPR and elsewhere. She is the inaugural Carol Shields Prize Hedgebrook Residency Winner. Find out more at www.christinaberke.com.💕